Economisation

So far each system has been considered individually. they must all work together within the boat, so the design must ensure that there is sufficient space in the boat to fit the blocks and lines without them catching on each other. This takes a lot of time and is best done by trying it in the boat. i focus on one area of the boat at a time, working from front to back. i found particular problem areas, at the mast foot, down the sides of the centreboard case, and at the transom.

Consider also the exact positioning of cleats including any risers that might be needed.

I am using continuous systems on the kicker and jib halyard, these both cleat on the back edge of the thwart. the continuous system keeps tension in the entire control line, the routing requires that the lines turn at the side of the boat. This is done using small plastic rings just underneath the deck. i wanted to use small blocks, but could not find a fixing solution with permitted a great enough range of movement without using a lot of space. the rings are staggered down the deck to make it as easy as possible to grab the correct line. The result looks like a cats cradle, but works effectively.

One benefit of changing all the rigging at one time is the ability to standardise fittings. Where ever possible i have used 30mm Ronstan blocks, and small Harken cleats. This minimises the number of spares i need to carry. The main exceptions to this are,

1. Jib sheet cleats - large Ronstan. I selected these because of all the cleats they were the easiest to push a sheet down into, rather than through
2. Sheet ratchet - Harken. Following discussions with other sailors this was a popular choice
3. Centreboard cap cleats - Holt. Only holt make a compact through deck lead.

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