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The boat 56 years 3 months ago #5697

  • Derek Gibbon
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With over 80 posts on “how to fix an old boat” I thought it time to look at “the crew” and see if we can make sure that if we can improve/share technique then we should all see an improvement. I think it was Robert Thomson that said taking notes and keeping an account of “numbers” for different conditions. Chris Turner stated that he didn’t like sailing triangles, by his own admission he does not like reaches and it is not his best point of sailing…. In fact for an ex-National Champion he boldly stated, “he was not good at reaches”. So how can we improve?



As Robert states start off by taking notes, so what does the “list” need to include:

Crew weight

Mast position / Rake value

Spreader length, deflection angle

Controls available; mast ram, pre-bend, cunningham, adjustable shroud, kicker, fly away pole,

Sails - high/low aspect Jib, flat/full main sail

Choice of Board position (bolt hole discussed elsewhere)



All of this for the 3 main wind conditions, light/medium/heavy and also possibly how to “tweak” for differing sea state – flat/chop/waves/rolling swell.



Also for the 3 main points and variations of sailing beating/reaching/running.



Derek Gibbon 7176 et al

Derek Gibbon2008-11-13 03:04:41

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The boat 56 years 3 months ago #5698

  • jean
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All points above are very important, but with quite a lot of us lake sailing, with short courses, I believe important considerations possibly before all the above, are:

Go the right way.


Keep the boat flat.

Get clear air

Work together

"Keep your head out of the boat."



Once these are mastered, then start playing with string! (Obviously you need to get the basic setup right)

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The boat 56 years 3 months ago #5701

  • Derek Gibbon
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Hi Jean and all you pond sailors!



All points are valid once you get started and are on the water but consider the 5 (or 6) "P’s”, Prior Preparation Prevents P Poor Performance. So what do we need to do before going on the water? If you have ever been to a tuning weekend with any of our Class stalwarts then comments like “take notice of the weather conditions on the way to the event”, “if you are sailing in an unfamiliar place talk to the locals about: wind bends, tide issues, shallow/deep water, overhanging trees (for you pondies!) So that’s your head out of the boat! Which I think is Jeans’ most important comment.



In the boat, have you got your “numbers”? I would be interested to know if the standard set-up for mast position / rake / spreader length are based around a specific crew weight and dare I even mention hull shape / board position! Once we have our starting numbers for the above – at which point do we change them (more/less) wind and by how much? My opinion is that if the starting numbers are correct for each crew weight / wind strength, then moving up/down the power scale is what we need to look at. As most races start with a beat and are likely to contain reaches and runs let’s look at a typical scenario that we face.



Pre-start decisions, which end is favoured, avoiding being pushed over, staying in clear air, can you go to your “chosen” side. Once you have made the “right” decision be ready for the plan being upset and think of an alternative plan if you have to “bale out”. Reach along the line find a new gap, tack and go behind every one on port!



So first beat and you have achieved “clear air”, keep it! If someone tacks on top of you decide quickly whether to free off and go low, or tack. Are you are going the “right way”, if yes would a quick double tack be better than a bear away? This also may be affected by how close to the lay-line/windward mark you are. If during the beat you are over powered then the first change is to apply more kicker, still overpowered, more kicker, still overpowered, less mast ram, progressively more kicker, less ram until the power is right, you may also need to free off the main and eventually lift the board. If you have an adjustable rig you may want to increase rake (move the mast back at the tip). If during the beat the wind drops then do the reverse, reduce kicker, increase ram, apply pre-bend, move the rig forward.



Before you know it the windward mark will arrive, you have made your decisions to arrive on port/starboard. You have a plan; all the way up the beat you have been paying attention to the boats that have been passing close, so no surprise when they arrive at the mark with you! Choose your gap and get around clean.



I think there’s enough above to get comments about the beat and the set-up.



Derek Gibbon 7176 et al

Ps this is of course only the thoughts of a middle of the fleet racer. Long winded at that!

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The boat 56 years 3 months ago #5702

  • MrGin
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I think Jean has it about right!



Keep your head out the boat!

Make you decisions before you go out on the water you can always change them on the sail out.




I have four settings (answers on a post card please)

1) NFW. Add pre-bend

2) LOS (Lard on Side) Remove Prebend add mast ram

3) FW less mast ram loads of kicker

4) RFW no mast ram bucket loads of kicker/outhaul/cunningham



Are your fairleads in the right place?



You should be thinking about these things before and whilst you in the dinghy park.



On the way out/practice beat asses the gusts and wind speed and adjust setting accordingly ie you may be in 12knots but gusting 18knts. Do these gusts last for a split second ie by the time you have reacted then they have been and gone so set your boat up accordingly.



Often by the time you have adjusted the boat you've missed a gust/lift veared off to leeward/healed the boat and slipped sideways etc. etc.



You should be watching out for gusts/lifts other boats. Asking questions? Ask the crew if the boats in front / behind have gone left or right?Are they been headed or lifted? The helm should be watching the jib most of the time and heading in the right direction. There is one thing going fast but there is another going fast in the wrong direction! Keep checking your top tell tail and adjusting you kicker. Do it before the gusts not during then it's too late and you have lost a boat length!



Before the start and in start preperation sail the boat and get a feel for boat speed so you can time you start correctly.



Phil

A6504 "Nemesis"

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The boat 56 years 3 months ago #5734

  • Robert Thomson
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Whilst I agree that all the above stuff is very relevant there is one thing that I have found that is essential to join all these together. - Practice, practice,practice and whe your fed up practice some more.
The best results I've ever had were when we practiced constantly even just going of on our own and practicing mark roundings gybes, tacks etc so you can do them in your sleep ( A Mike Mac training session here in Shetland many years ago highlighted graphically just how essential practice is in perfecting boathandling).
By sailing more you also get a better "feel" for your boat, presets are fine but how often do you get them all exact, you have to be able to feel that the boat is performing(and know what to do if it isn't !!). Some people seem to be born with a natural affinity for this some can learn and the rest of us just have to try as hard as we can.
Remember the saying "the more I practice the luckier I get"
Sorry if I have probably posted something similar before but I feel the importance of practice just can't be overstated( at least for us mortals)

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The boat 56 years 3 months ago #5798

  • Derek Gibbon
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Hi looks like we have all left you at the windward mark.



Lets assume you got around ok. Is the next leg a reach or a run, we will do the reach first! You already know which jobs are helm, which jobs are crew, most are crew. There are a couple of jobs that need to be done in order for the helm to bear away, especially in a blow, so:- board off as you round, mast ram off, kicker re-set, outhaul to reaching position, shrouds off, jib tension on, pole out on leeward side. Balance forward/aft - leeward/windward.



The helm has been paying attention to who is close, do we go straight for the gybe mark, high or low. We maybe know if we have a "luffer" on our transom, if so keep this in mind, better to let one boat go than end up so high that we loose lots of places as we end up going to high for the mark. Norman Halstead has written an excellent article on best way to go! (I will see if I can scan it in)



Waves are as important as the wind especially if it is a planning reach. This however means you will not be going in a straight line, the optimum situation is to have the bow pointing “down hill” for as long as possible. Gravity assists the speed! You have to avoid driving into the next wave by going across the waves before bearing away to either catch the next wave, or if less lucky being back on top of the one you just “surfed”. Depending on your angle of approach and who is about you may have to give/ask for water; lets assume you are in the clear.



GYBE - full speed, the faster the better! Protect your new position if there are others close and make the same decisions as for leaving the windward mark. Crew weight is very important, especially in a blow, if there are swimmers at the mark then you need to decide if you want to go around the long way, dry! As Ron James says "wearing around is quicker than swimming". Once on the new reach and having made your decisions on “route” to the leeward mark, settle down as quick as you can, don’t assume it’s equal in terms of angle – wind etc. Assuming you arrive clear at the next mark all those adjustments need to go back on for the beat. Jib/shroud adjusted back on, outhaul back on, board down, kicker/ram re-set, and hopefully weight on the side hiked out ready for a clear air beat. Remember that if the wind has increased/decreased, you may need to tweak from you previous circuit settings. Well that’s enough for now, feel free to add/disagree with your thoughts.



Derek 7176

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